Our Namibia road trip reaches its grand finale as we leave the cool Atlantic coast behind and head into the Namib Desert.
In Part 3 of our three-part Namibia series, we travel through Walvis Bay and Kuiseb Canyon. Next, we cross the NamibRand Nature Reserve and explore Sossusvlei and Deadvlei.
We also take a private helicopter flight over the desert and experience some of the darkest night skies on Earth.
Along the way, we continue an important part of this scouting trip. We test how well remote luxury lodges can cater for vegan travelers.
Finally, the journey ends at Zannier Hotels Omaanda. Here, wildlife conservation and some of the best vegan food of the entire trip come together.
Leaving Swakopmund on Our Namibia Road Trip
After our time on Namibia’s Atlantic coast, we left Swakopmund and headed south.
First, we stopped at Walvis Bay. Thousands of greater and lesser flamingos gather in the shallow waters of the lagoon.
It was a beautiful final glimpse of the coast. Then, we turned inland on the C14.
Almost immediately, the cool Atlantic air disappeared. Instead, the dry desert heat returned.
Through Kuiseb Canyon
The drive south took us through the dramatic landscape of Kuiseb Canyon.
This vast, rocky region feels almost otherworldly. Dry gorges cut through the ancient landscape.
The canyon also has an interesting history. Two German geologists, Henno Martin and Hermann Korn, hid here during World War II to avoid internment.
Further south, we reached the famous Tropic of Capricorn sign.
Of course, we had to stop for a photo.
After that, we crossed Namibia’s long gravel roads, passed Solitaire and continued toward NamibRand Nature Reserve.
Rare Desert Flowers in NamibRand
NamibRand is one of Africa’s largest private nature reserves.
It is known for huge open spaces, red dunes and very dark night skies.
However, the desert looked very different when we arrived.
Unseasonal winter rain had changed parts of the dry landscape. Large areas were covered in yellow flowers.
The delicate flowers looked beautiful against the red dunes in the distance.
It felt like a once-in-a-lifetime sight.
Staying at Kwessi Dunes
Our first desert lodge was Kwessi Dunes.
The lodge sits inside NamibRand Nature Reserve. It looks across open plains toward huge red dunes.
Each chalet also has an outdoor stargazing area. Guests can relax or even sleep beneath the desert sky.
That afternoon, we joined a scenic drive through the reserve.
Along the way, we saw gemsbok, springbok and zebras.
Then, as the sun disappeared, something unusual happened.
We saw the Green Flash.
This short optical event can happen just as the sun drops below the horizon. For a moment, a small flash of green light appears.
Seeing it in the quiet Namib Desert was unforgettable.
Vegan Food at Kwessi Dunes
Dinner at Kwessi Dunes was simple but enjoyable.
The kitchen prepared a spiced vegetable tagine with couscous. We had poached pears for dessert.
Earlier in our Namibia road trip, some of the vegan meals had been disappointing.
However, the food was now improving.
The next morning brought another good surprise. Breakfast included scrambled tofu, muffins and almond milk.
Quad Biking Across the Red Dunes
After breakfast, we headed out for a quad biking adventure.
Instead of riding separate bikes, I climbed onto the back of Seb’s quad.
That made things more interesting than expected.
At first, we rode across flat gravel plains. However, the ride became harder when we reached the dunes.
Some of the steep climbs were difficult with two people on one bike.
A few times, I had to jump off. Seb then backed the quad down the dune and tried again.
The ride was exciting and sometimes a little scary.
Still, the views across the untouched red dunes were worth it.
Wilderness Little Kulala
Next, we travelled to Wilderness Little Kulala.
The lodge sits inside the private Kulala Wilderness Reserve.
It also gives guests an important advantage when visiting Sossusvlei.
Meanwhile, Little Kulala gave us one of the most encouraging vegan food experiences of the trip.
We met Gina, the executive chef for Wilderness properties.
The company was working on special plant-based menus across its properties. Little Kulala was one of the pilot locations.
Our lunch was colorful, fresh and carefully prepared.
Most importantly, vegan food was not being treated as an afterthought.
An Early Start for Sossusvlei
The following morning started before sunrise.
By 6:00 AM, we were in an open safari vehicle with our guide, Justice.
Little Kulala has a private concession gate into the national park.
This gives guests an important advantage.
Most visitors must wait for the main Sesriem gate to open at sunrise. As a result, cars can form long queues.
We avoided that wait.
Instead, Justice opened the private gate and we entered the park ahead of the crowds.
As the sun rose, the enormous dunes began to glow.
One side turned bright orange. Meanwhile, the other side remained in deep shadow.
It was spectacular.
Climbing Big Daddy
Eventually, we reached the deep sand near Big Daddy.
Big Daddy is one of the tallest dunes in the area.
Climbing a giant sand dune is much harder than it looks.
Every step sinks into the soft sand. Therefore, the climb can feel slow and tiring.
However, the views became more impressive as we climbed higher.
Below us was one of Namibia’s most famous landscapes: Deadvlei.
Walking Through Deadvlei
Instead of walking all the way along the top, we took the fun route down.
We ran straight down the steep dune into Deadvlei.
At the bottom, the landscape looked surreal.
Ancient black camelthorn trees stand on a white clay pan. Huge red dunes surround them under a deep blue sky.
The trees died hundreds of years ago after the water supply disappeared.
However, the desert is so dry that the trees did not rot away.
As a result, their dark skeletons still stand today.
It is one of the most haunting and beautiful places in Namibia.
Exploring Sesriem Canyon
After Deadvlei, we enjoyed breakfast under living camelthorn trees.
Then, we began our journey back.
On the way, we stopped at Sesriem Canyon.
The Tsauchab River carved this narrow gorge over millions of years.
We walked between the high rock walls and saw the layers beneath the desert landscape.
andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge
Later that day, we arrived at andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge.
The lodge looks very different from the more traditional safari camps we had visited.
Stone, glass and steel help the buildings blend into the rocky mountain setting.
Our suite had huge windows facing the desert.
It also had a private plunge pool, outdoor shower and a skylight above the bed.
However, one of the biggest highlights of our Namibia road trip was still ahead.
Flying Over the Namib Desert
That afternoon, we boarded a private doors-off helicopter.
Seeing the Namib from the air changes your sense of its size.
From above, the dunes look like giant waves frozen in place.
We flew over Sossusvlei and Deadvlei.
Looking down, we could see the same huge dunes we had explored on foot earlier that day.
We also saw the mysterious fairy circles scattered across the landscape.
Then, our pilot landed on a remote mountain plateau.
We stepped out into complete silence.
As the sun went down, the desert changed from gold to orange and then violet.
Standing there with a drink and looking across the endless desert was one of the most memorable moments of our trip.
Stargazing in the Namib Desert
After dinner, another special experience waited for us.
andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge sits inside the NamibRand International Dark Sky Reserve.
There is very little artificial light here. Therefore, the stars are incredibly clear.
At the lodge observatory, a resident astronomer showed us major constellations.
He also explained how people used the stars to navigate across the desert.
Then, we looked through a powerful telescope.
We saw Saturn, Jupiter and distant star clusters in amazing detail.
It was the perfect ending to a remarkable day.
Leaving the Desert
The next morning, it was time to leave the deep desert.
We began the long drive northeast toward Windhoek.
Along the way, we climbed through the Great Escarpment before returning to the B1 highway.
However, our Namibia road trip was not quite finished.
Instead of driving into central Windhoek, we headed toward our final lodge.
Zannier Hotels Omaanda
Zannier Hotels Omaanda sits in a private reserve outside Windhoek.
The lodge takes inspiration from traditional Owambo architecture.
It has curved walls, natural materials and only ten private chalets.
As a result, it feels peaceful and secluded.
The reserve also works with the N/a’an ku sê Foundation.
The foundation focuses on wildlife conservation, rehabilitation and reducing human-wildlife conflict.
Therefore, Omaanda was a fitting final stop on our scouting journey.
The Best Vegan Food of the Trip
Then came dinner.
Omaanda delivered one of the strongest plant-based meals of our entire Namibia road trip.
The kitchen did not treat vegan food as a restriction.
Instead, the chefs approached it as fine dining.
Each dish looked beautiful and had plenty of flavor and texture.
After nearly two weeks of speaking with chefs and lodge teams about vegan food, this meal felt especially rewarding.
Most importantly, it showed what is possible when plant-based food receives the same care as every other menu.
The End of Our Namibia Road Trip
The following morning, we enjoyed one last breakfast.
Then, we headed to Hosea Kutako International Airport.
Our scouting journey had taken us more than 2,500 kilometres across Namibia.
We travelled on highways, gravel roads, dry riverbeds and mountain passes.
Along the way, we explored wildlife reserves, ancient rock art, the Atlantic coast and some of the world’s most famous dunes.
We also stayed at a wide range of lodges and spoke directly with their kitchen teams.
That is why scouting matters.
Being there allows us to test routes, inspect lodges and understand the logistics.
It also gives us the chance to work with kitchens before our travelers arrive.
As a result, we can build trips with great experiences and satisfying plant-based food.
Namibia is vast, wild and beautiful.
After this journey, we are even more excited about bringing World Vegan Travel guests here in the future.
Listen to Namibia Road Trip Part 1 & 2
This is the final episode in our three-part Namibia road trip series.
If you have not heard the earlier episodes, start with Namibia Road Trip Part 1: Windhoek & Etosha.
Then, continue with Namibia Road Trip Part 2: Damaraland & Skeleton Coast.
Finally, if you want to hear about a future World Vegan Travel Namibia trip, sign up for our newsletter.
Learn More About What is Discussed on the Podcast
- NamibRand Nature Reserve – Learn more about the private conservation reserve, its desert landscapes, wildlife and conservation work.
- NamibRand International Dark Sky Reserve – More about why NamibRand is recognised for its exceptionally dark night skies and stargazing.
- Namib Sand Sea – UNESCO World Heritage Site – Background on the huge dune system that includes some of Namibia’s most extraordinary desert landscapes.
- Wilderness Little Kulala – The lodge near Sossusvlei where Brighde and Seb stayed, including information about its private reserve access and desert experiences.
- andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge – Learn more about the desert lodge, suites, stargazing and experiences featured in the episode.
- Zannier Hotels Omaanda – More about the final lodge on the scouting journey and its wildlife-conservation setting near Windhoek.
- N/a’an ku sê Foundation – Learn about the wildlife conservation, rehabilitation and human-wildlife coexistence work connected with the reserve at Omaanda.
Other World Vegan Travel Content Connected With This Episode
- Namibia Road Trip Part 1: Windhoek & Etosha
- Namibia Road Trip Part 2: Damaraland & Skeleton Coast
- Namibia – There’s something for everyone! | Marike & Diaan Hoffman | Ep 109
- African Plant-Based Cuisine | Food, Culture & Tamu
- Elephant Conservation in South Africa | A Scientist’s Mission
- The First Plant-Forward Safari Lodge in Africa | Helene Sinisterra
- Exploring Vegan Hospitality in South Africa: An Interview with Marian from Old Joe’s Kaia
- The Timbavati, Game Reserve in South Africa – A Vegan Paradise | Hayley Cooper | Ep 114
- Five Best Places in South Africa to see The Big Five | Ingrid Geertsema | Ep 105
- S4 Ep2 Namibia – The Safari Destination You Need To Know About | JC De Klerk